My stick/lollipop broke last night. Anyone have a spair to sell?

[Chris Burns]

i loved my zig zag duo audio, but lent it to a friend who i dont think knew how to balance it on the zag on his shoulder and alas it snapped (my fault for lending it).

I am budgeting my money right now towards studio equipment, and really dont want to shell another $250 for another one.

If you ahve a spare one sitting around you want to get rid of, drop me a line!

[Armento]

dude.. use your headshell and make a new one.. shit's easy.. you'll spend under 10 bux.

seek out the lolli threads

[Chris Burns]

can't find the thread this is in? Search:Lollipop brings up a ton and i couldnt find any of this fix....

But yes a $10 fix is definitely in my budget...

[Chris Burns]

a little help? couldnt find any info about reparing my lolli wit ha headshell in those threads

[HOUSE MIKE FEVA]

a little help? couldnt find any info about reparing my lolli wit ha headshell in those threads

i have one for sale....pioneer....

[Ish]

I encourage a thread title change, this one is ripe for mis-interpretation...

:wink:

[Armento]

This comes to you compliments of Kenny..> I believe it was Kenny Carvajal.. It's what I used to make mine. I think the pipe size was 1/2 inch.



"-Get a pvc pipe (can't remember the size) from your local hardware store, cut it to the length you want.
-If you want it bent, simply heat the section or area you want bent and bend slowly. Don't over heat as it will melt the pipe. The idea is to simply soften it so it will bend.
-Heat the top of the handle and while it's soft, push the peice that's holding the ear cup into the pipe so it will take the shape of it.
-Don't over push. You don't want the pipe to stick out too much so you can completely cover it with the foam.
-Once it hardens into the shape, drill two small holes carefully.
-Make sure the holes are angled just right so the screw will hit the peice that's holding the cup.
-Don't install/attach the earcup until you've added the foam handle so you don't acctidentally push with the earcup, possibly breaking it off.
-Install the foam handle which you can get from a bike store. They sell them pre-cut to a perfect length with end caps and all.
-Feed your cable though, slide or pull the top of the foam down a tad to expose the holes, screw the earcup in place with a small screw, fix the foam to completely hide the screw and the pipe, and voila!

I've been using mine for 4 years and have had no problems other than when my record bag was carelessly handled at the airport. I was able to fix it easly by re-screwing using a butter knife.

I didn't bother with the fancy lights. They're cool but for me was more work than it's worth. =o)

It's the headphone I'm using in the image below.

Good luck y'all!

Whaddup Nico???

Kenny"

[Scotty Mac]

My old one just recently died also so I just got done making a couple of new ones.

Cup: Sony MDR-V700
Driver: 50mm, 5,000mW, 24Ohm
Grip: 160mm long x 35mm diameter steel with 22.5º bend, MDCC foam
Switch: Switchcraft 3-position
Socket: Switchcraft XLR
Jacks: Neutrik 90º XLR and TRS
Cable: Canare Star Quad 21AWG
LED: 5mm SuperBright
Resistors: 24Ohm x 2



http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone1.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone2.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone3.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone4.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone5.jpg

I don't have one for sale, but they're not too difficult to fabricate if you have a little time, proper tools, and patience.

Parts
Cup: Sony MDR-V700 or whatever make/model you desire. The MDR-V700 is one of the best headphones for this type of modification because it is a uni-directional design.
Grip: .875"-1" diameter steel or aluminum pipe cut to whatever length you desire. If you want a curve you will need to have the pipe properly bent to whatever angle(s) you desire.
Grip Covering: Medium-density closed-cell foam cut approximately .5" longer than whatever total length the pipe is and in whatever color you desire. For a professional cosmetic touch you may wish to have the ends of the foam re-shaped with a nice rounded contour along outside edge.
Micro-switch: Switchcraft 56313L2. NOTE: A switch isn't required, but I added one so I can toggle between left, right, and left+right modes. This is so I can verify both left and right channels independently when setting up at a gig in case the venue's mixer doesn't happen to have a balance control or separate left/right level indicators.
Male XLR Socket: Switchcraft B3M (nickel finish), or B3MB (black finish)
Female XLR Plug: Neutrik NC3FXX (nickel finish), or NC3FXX-B (black finish), or NC3FRX (90º nickel finish), or NC3FRX-B (90º black finish)
Male .25" 3-pole TRS Plug: Neutrik NP3X (nickel finish), or NP3X-B (black finish), or NP3RX (90º nickel finish), or NP3RX-B (90º black finish)
Cable: Canare Star Quad Microphone 21AWG cut to whatever length you desire and in whatever color you desire (black, white, grey, red, blue, orange, green, yellow, purple, or brown)
LED: 5mm SuperBright with mounting bezel in whatever color you desire (white, blue, green, aqua, red, yellow, orange, or violet). NOTE: A LED isn't required, but I added one so I can have a quick visual reference that both left and right channels are being fed into headphone.
Resistors: 24Ohm, .5W (X2). This specification is for the MDR-V700. If you choose another headphone you will need to verify the impedance and wattage of that particular driver and use the appropriate resistors.

Construction
Carefully disassemble standard headphone (or in the case of the MDR-V700 it will most likely conveniently already be disassembled for you - lol). Carefully cut factory leads as long as possible and detach the earcups from the headband.

If you are going to add the optional LED then mount it to the back opening the cup and drilling .25" hole where you want it on the back of the cup and securing it with the snap-in mounting bezel. Carefully solder the LED's +lead to the driver's +terminal and the -lead to the -terminal. Be sure to insulate both leads from each other and any other conductive areas inside cup.

Extend the two leads about 3" longer than the total length of the pipe grip by carefully soldering extensions. Be sure to apply heat shrink at solder joints and wrap leads in protective casing such as TechFlex.

Depending on make/model of headphone, you will need to fabricate a mounting method for securing the cup's bracket to the pipe. How to do this should become apparent once you have the two pieces in front of you, but with the MDR-V700 I simply used a drill press to bore a hole directly through the center of pipe where it aligns with the cup bracket when inserted and attached it with a flush mounted machine bolt/nut.

Feed leads down through center of pipe so they exit at bottom.

Sum the +left and +right leads by connecting and soldering them together with the two resistors at one end only.

Connect the ground lead to the XLR socket's pin #1.

Connect the +left lead to the XLR socket's pin #2.

Connect the +right lead to the XLR socket's pin #3.

At this point test everything by using multimeter and a test audio source. If all checks good, move on.

Be sure to apply heat shrink at all solder joints and wrap leads in protective casing such as TechFlex.

Slide excess length of leads up into pipe and mount XLR socket to end of pipe by drilling a hole in the center of pipe where it meets the center of socket case and secure with a flush mounted set screw.

Apply a few drops of dishwashing liquid to outside of pipe and cover entire surface by smearing it around. Quickly apply small amount of water to inside of foam grip carefully slide all the way onto pipe until bottom end meets flush along edge of XLR socket's mounting flange. Wipe off excess dish washing liquid and water and let air dry.

Make the connecting cable by soldering and attaching the chosen XLR and TRS plugs to desired length of microphone cable.

Plug in and enjoy.

Here's some pics showing the two different types of cable connectors (straight vs. 90º). The straight works fine, but as you can see the 90º drops the cable straight downward perfectly while in use. Personal preference.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone6.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone7.jpg

[HOUSE MIKE FEVA]

My old one just recently died also so I just got done making a couple of new ones.

Cup: Sony MDR-V700
Driver: 50mm, 5,000mW, 24Ohm
Grip: 160mm long x 35mm diameter steel with 22.5º bend, MDCC foam
Switch: Switchcraft 3-position
Socket: Switchcraft XLR
Jacks: Neutrik 90º XLR and TRS
Cable: Canare Star Quad 21AWG
LED: 5mm SuperBright
Resistors: 24Ohm x 2



http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone1.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone2.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone3.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone4.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone5.jpg

I don't have one for sale, but they're not too difficult to fabricate if you have a little time, proper tools, and patience.

Parts
Cup: Sony MDR-V700 or whatever make/model you desire. The MDR-V700 is one of the best headphones for this type of modification because it is a uni-directional design.
Grip: .875"-1" diameter steel or aluminum pipe cut to whatever length you desire. If you want a curve you will need to have the pipe properly bent to whatever angle(s) you desire.
Grip Covering: Medium-density closed-cell foam cut approximately .5" longer than whatever total length the pipe is and in whatever color you desire. For a professional cosmetic touch you may wish to have the ends of the foam re-shaped with a nice rounded contour along outside edge.
Micro-switch: Switchcraft 56313L2. NOTE: A switch isn't required, but I added one so I can toggle between left, right, and left+right modes. This is so I can verify both left and right channels independently when setting up at a gig in case the venue's mixer doesn't happen to have a balance control or separate left/right level indicators.
Male XLR Socket: Switchcraft B3M (nickel finish), or B3MB (black finish)
Female XLR Plug: Neutrik NC3FXX (nickel finish), or NC3FXX-B (black finish), or NC3FRX (90º nickel finish), or NC3FRX-B (90º black finish)
Male .25" 3-pole TRS Plug: Neutrik NP3X (nickel finish), or NP3X-B (black finish), or NP3RX (90º nickel finish), or NP3RX-B (90º black finish)
Cable: Canare Star Quad Microphone 21AWG cut to whatever length you desire and in whatever color you desire (black, white, grey, red, blue, orange, green, yellow, purple, or brown)
LED: 5mm SuperBright with mounting bezel in whatever color you desire (white, blue, green, aqua, red, yellow, orange, or violet). NOTE: A LED isn't required, but I added one so I can have a quick visual reference that both left and right channels are being fed into headphone.
Resistors: 24Ohm, .5W (X2). This specification is for the MDR-V700. If you choose another headphone you will need to verify the impedance and wattage of that particular driver and use the appropriate resistors.

Construction
Carefully disassemble standard headphone (or in the case of the MDR-V700 it will most likely conveniently already be disassembled for you - lol). Carefully cut factory leads as long as possible and detach the earcups from the headband.

If you are going to add the optional LED then mount it to the back opening the cup and drilling .25" hole where you want it on the back of the cup and securing it with the snap-in mounting bezel. Carefully solder the LED's +lead to the driver's +terminal and the -lead to the -terminal. Be sure to insulate both leads from each other and any other conductive areas inside cup.

Extend the two leads about 3" longer than the total length of the pipe grip by carefully soldering extensions. Be sure to apply heat shrink at solder joints and wrap leads in protective casing such as TechFlex.

Depending on make/model of headphone, you will need to fabricate a mounting method for securing the cup's bracket to the pipe. How to do this should become apparent once you have the two pieces in front of you, but with the MDR-V700 I simply used a drill press to bore a hole directly through the center of pipe where it aligns with the cup bracket when inserted and attached it with a flush mounted machine bolt/nut.

Feed leads down through center of pipe so they exit at bottom.

Sum the +left and +right leads by connecting and soldering them together with the two resistors at one end only.

Connect the ground lead to the XLR socket's pin #1.

Connect the +left lead to the XLR socket's pin #2.

Connect the +right lead to the XLR socket's pin #3.

At this point test everything by using multimeter and a test audio source. If all checks good, move on.

Be sure to apply heat shrink at all solder joints and wrap leads in protective casing such as TechFlex.

Slide excess length of leads up into pipe and mount XLR socket to end of pipe by drilling a hole in the center of pipe where it meets the center of socket case and secure with a flush mounted set screw.

Apply a few drops of dishwashing liquid to outside of pipe and cover entire surface by smearing it around. Quickly apply small amount of water to inside of foam grip carefully slide all the way onto pipe until bottom end meets flush along edge of XLR socket's mounting flange. Wipe off excess dish washing liquid and water and let air dry.

Make the connecting cable by soldering and attaching the chosen XLR and TRS plugs to desired length of microphone cable.

Plug in and enjoy.

Here's some pics showing the two different types of cable connectors (straight vs. 90º). The straight works fine, but as you can see the 90º drops the cable straight downward perfectly while in use. Personal preference.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone6.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone7.jpg

YOU WANNA SELL IT????

[1SmoothDj]

For really real! I don't have time or patience to make one!! Damn I need that! Thanks for sharing the how too though.. pretty through!!

Marv

[MercezSoul]

YOU WANNA SELL IT????

Dats wut i'm talkin bout...you just made a couple???? Hook a sista up then, wanna sell it? (I'm not blockin Mike http://deephousepage.com/smilies/rofl5.gif I'm sayin...he just made a couple...)http://deephousepage.com/smilies/bananalama.gif

[Chris Conrad]

This comes to you compliments of Kenny..> I believe it was Kenny Carvajal.. It's what I used to make mine. I think the pipe size was 1/2 inch.



"-Get a pvc pipe (can't remember the size) from your local hardware store, cut it to the length you want.
-If you want it bent, simply heat the section or area you want bent and bend slowly. Don't over heat as it will melt the pipe. The idea is to simply soften it so it will bend.
-Heat the top of the handle and while it's soft, push the peice that's holding the ear cup into the pipe so it will take the shape of it.
-Don't over push. You don't want the pipe to stick out too much so you can completely cover it with the foam.
-Once it hardens into the shape, drill two small holes carefully.
-Make sure the holes are angled just right so the screw will hit the peice that's holding the cup.
-Don't install/attach the earcup until you've added the foam handle so you don't acctidentally push with the earcup, possibly breaking it off.
-Install the foam handle which you can get from a bike store. They sell them pre-cut to a perfect length with end caps and all.
-Feed your cable though, slide or pull the top of the foam down a tad to expose the holes, screw the earcup in place with a small screw, fix the foam to completely hide the screw and the pipe, and voila!

I've been using mine for 4 years and have had no problems other than when my record bag was carelessly handled at the airport. I was able to fix it easly by re-screwing using a butter knife.

I didn't bother with the fancy lights. They're cool but for me was more work than it's worth. =o)

It's the headphone I'm using in the image below.

Good luck y'all!

Whaddup Nico???

Kenny"

this leaves out the resistor...

[Armento]

this leaves out the resistor...
what does that do?

[MercezSoul]

what does that do? It resists :)

[Chris Conrad]

what does that do?

prevents distortion/overdriving...because you're summing two inputs into one driver for lollipops...combining left+right...

[Armento]

prevents distortion/overdriving...because you're summing two inputs into one driver for lollipops...combining left+right...
my physical connection broke long before the driver gave out :icon130:

[Chris Conrad]

my physical connection broke long before the driver gave out :icon130:

it will work, but depending on what driver you are using can sound like crap, especially at higher volumes, like in a club. some sound ok, some sound like ass. proper way to do it is with a resistor...

[Scotty Mac]

Hey guys/gals. Thanks for all the inquiries, but I'm not selling any right now. Currently too busy with other projects and may make some more for sale a bit later. Believe it or not, these things do take a fair amount of time to properly produce. Anyway, I got a bunch of messages requesting detail on the wiring, so here's a quick schematic for you DIYers. Note though that you will need to select the correct resistor values based on your particular driver. Hope this helps.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/monophone_schematic.jpg


http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/jack1.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/jack2.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/jack3.jpg

[Chris Burns]

great stuff! this will be a weekend project in the future with some busted drivers i have lying around...

[GroovMaster]

good deal

[Shannon]

Great Thread!!!! This needs to be archived!!

[Chris Burns]

I deleted a bunch of PMs and there was somebody who made these in the Chicago area I was corresponding with. I don't have time to make one and I just broke another. SEnd me a PM if you can hook this up...

[Scotty Mac]

Hey guys - Have had a few inquiries about how to secure the XLR jack to the grip/handle, so here it goes:

I mount the XLR jack to the bottom end of the handle by drilling a hole precisely where the jack's machine screw is positioned when the jack is fully inserted into the handle. After all the internal soldering and wiring is completed, I then secure the jack to the handle with a very small set screw and a dab of Loctite. Then the handle is fully covered with the foam grip material.

The metal tube that makes the handle I bought from Home Depot and could probably be bought from any hardware store or metal shop. I make mine from galvanized steel, not aluminum, but aluminum could be used if wanted (just make sure it's beefy enough to be durable).

The high-density foam material I use to cover the handle is the same that is used for bicycle/motorcycle grips and can usually be found at any bike/cycle shop. I buy longer lengths than what is needed and then cut them down to perfect size. Once that's done, I carefully re-shape the edge that was cut with a high speed sanding disc to give it a nice, rounded-over, finished professional look.

Hope this helps.


http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/cuestick_guts1.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/cuestick_guts2.jpg

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w234/Soulsonica/cuestick_guts3.jpg

[HOUSE MIKE FEVA]

Now exactly what size is that PIPE so that the XLR jack will fit into it properly? Thats what I need to now.

[Scotty Mac]

Now exactly what size is that PIPE so that the XLR jack will fit into it properly? Thats what I need to now.

I just put digital calipers on it and the metal is measuring 20mm I.D., 24mm O.D.

[HOUSE MIKE FEVA]

I just put digital calipers on it and the metal is measuring 20mm I.D., 24mm O.D.

You lost me on that one....lol...What size piping should I ask for at Home Depot...1/2", 3/4", 1".....

[Martin Red]

http://www.marionuk.co.uk/graphics/cheinhospital.jpeg

[HOUSE MIKE FEVA]

http://www.marionuk.co.uk/graphics/cheinhospital.jpeg

WOW! I guess lollipops don't work for you...:rofl5:

[Pang]

http://www.myspace.com/filsonik

Posted it on here before, Fil has got a bunch to sell.

tell him pang sent you. . . .

[HOUSE MIKE FEVA]

http://www.myspace.com/filsonik

Posted it on here before, Fil has got a bunch to sell.

tell him pang sent you. . . .

Thanks Pang but I'm trying to save some money and make em myself! They are not hard to do just takes a little time and patience.

[Scotty Mac]

You lost me on that one....lol...What size piping should I ask for at Home Depot...1/2", 3/4", 1".....

I'm trying to remember which size I bought now because my measurements are falling in between the 3/4" & 1" O.D. (outside diameter). I also don't remember if Home Depot marks their pipe with inside or outside dimensions. It's definitely not the 1/2". Shooting blind I'd say go for the 3/4", but galvanized pipe is cheap at these lengths, so I'd just buy both the 3/4" and the 1" and try them both. Or just take the XLR jack with you to the store and test fit onsite. The XLR jack should fit just a slight bit loose inside the pipe. Once the set screw is in place, it shouldn't move at all and be totally secure and solid.

[HOUSE MIKE FEVA]

i'm trying to remember which size i bought now because my measurements are falling in between the 3/4" & 1" o.d. (outside diameter). I also don't remember if home depot marks their pipe with inside or outside dimensions. It's definitely not the 1/2". Shooting blind i'd say go for the 3/4", but galvanized pipe is cheap at these lengths, so i'd just buy both the 3/4" and the 1" and try them both. Or just take the xlr jack with you to the store and test fit onsite. The xlr jack should fit just a slight bit loose inside the pipe. Once the set screw is in place, it shouldn't move at all and be totally secure and solid.

perfecto!