$2,500 for routine car work!!!!

[(Im)poster]

mad1.gif First let me say that I am not rolling in a Benz, a Lex, or a Jag. I drive a run of the mill, "reliable" cookie-cutter car bought used to avoid depreciation loss.

My car (1998) is running, I have the oil changed on schedule and there are no major issuse. This bill is to install new front and back brakes and roters, change spark plugs ($145!), change the timing belt, the air filter, transmission filter (or something like that), oil pan, wiper blades, and the like.

The trip thing is that my dad is a retired auto mechanic/service manager and I had them talk to him. He he got about $300 knocked off the price because they were charging too much for labor and parts. I'm really mad about that. My dad won't always be around and I should not get taken just because I am a woman who doesn't know much about cars. Add to that the news reports that Black and Hispanic customers tend to pay more for cars, and I get angrier. Is the issue discrimination or that some of us are just not adept at negotiating for the best price? Either way, it just doesn't seem right. Several years ago, my boyfriend took my previous car in for an oil change and they charged him $15. The same shop had charged me $25 for the oil change before that on the same car! If I had had the paperwork, I would have been planning a discrimination suit.

graemlins/banghead.gif I guess I am a fool for taking my car to the dealer, but I have not yet found a mechanic I trust. Anybody have some ideas on finding a good, honest mechanic or negotiating for more fair pricing? My car won't be serivced until Monday and they "gave" me a loaner car for the weekend. Still, I am tempted to just tell them to let me pay for the car and then look for someone else to do the work. Honestly, though, I don't really have the kind of time and part of the work is to pass state inspection.

[ April 06, 2003, 10:57 AM: Message edited by: (Im)poster ]

[DJ Timmy Richardson]

Where do u live

[imported_Gman]

Since we are talking about $2500 I would take the time to shop around. What kind of car do you have ? Year and Model.

-G

[rob gregory]

Peace.

I feel your pain. I just kicked out major dollars for car repair.

To add insult to injury, with the inflated gas prices (we in Californina have the dubious honor of having the highest gas prices in the country)it cost me $32 to fill my tank. I own a '94 Thunderbird. mad1.gif

[(Im)poster]

Originally posted by DJ Timmy Richardson:
Where do u live PA/Jersey area

[(Im)poster]

Originally posted by Gman:
Since we are talking about $2500 I would take the time to shop around. What kind of car do you have ? Year and Model.

-G 1998 Toyota Camry

[(Im)poster]

Originally posted by PhoreAyem:
Peace.

I feel your pain. I just kicked out major dollars for car repair.

To add insult to injury, with the inflated gas prices (we in Californina have the dubious honor of having the highest gas prices in the country)it cost me $32 to fill my tank. I own a '94 Thunderbird. mad1.gif Yes, I've heard that. It's just crazy. If I would move back to California, at least my dad would take care of my car for me. But as I said, he won't always be around. Maybe I should take a class on automobile repair basics. I like my nails, though. So much of it now is computerized anyway.

[imported_Gman]

Also if there are no major problems with the brakes (assuming you always replaced the brake pads when they got low) then why did they say you needed new rotors on all four wheels ?

-G

[Ronnie Ron]

Wow thats a good little amount of money to have to fork up. Seems a bit excessive to me for the work being done. Not sure whats up with that but i would try to find a trusted car mechanic fast so you can get a little relief on the prices... Good luck (IM)Poster

R.R.

[(Im)poster]

Originally posted by Gman:
Also if there are no major problems with the brakes (assuming you always replaced the brake pads when they got low) then why did they say you needed new rotors on all four wheels ?

-G Had the pads replaced about this time last year. Also had the 40,000-mile service done about six months ago. Forgot to ask them if the rotors can be resurfaced and will ask that tomorrow. They were also instructed to keep all the parts. I'm just going to have them do what needs to be done to pass inspection and find someone else to do the rest of the "suggested" work -- if it really needs to be done.

Thanks Ron, for your good wishes.

[YoRel]

First Rule of Thumb, NEVER TAKE YOUR CAR TO THE DEALER. They always cost more. If it's an America/Nissan/Toyota car any chain auto store will do, until you find a mechanic you trust. If it's a BMW, LEX, BENZ ....etc. Take it to a shop that specialize in that kind of car. smile.gif

As far as brakes, if you didn't hear any squeaking or grinding sounds. They are full of sh*t if they tell you that you need new rotors. mad1.gif

[Wild i]

No matter how timely you are in getting your brakes replaced, sooner or later you'll have to replace the rotors. It's just a matter of friction.

I don't understand, based on the things you listed, what is totalling $2500. Even with new rotors (roughly $500 for 4) brakes (about $250 for 4), full tune-up, including plugs and air filter, ($100 is a lot), wiper blades (about $12), don't know about a transmission filter, but certainly no more than $100, and that's because they might have to drop the tranny (but probably not) and can't imagine why you need a new oil pan unless you seriously bottomed out somewhere, but parts and service is not more than $150. Now that timing belt... a serpentine belt is about $200, plus labor, say another $100. I'm coming up with just over $1400.

I don't know of a good mechanic in your area, but Pep Boys has a pretty good reputation and a guarantee.

I haven't found a good mechanic who I would want to patronize consistently (mine retired), but Gman's advice is best: Shop around.

Camry is a good car. If you put $2500 into it now, it'll probably last you at least another 10 years, if that's what you want, but it should be $2500 well place dollars.

This just in...

Jersey City -- Cumunipar Blvd(spelling is supect). If you're interested, give me a complete list of what they say you need and I'll get you a price. You might have to come up north a bit, but it could be well worth the trip. Better you should spend $7 in tolls than waste $1000 on unnecessary repairs or inflated prices.

Let me know.

[GROOVE VICTIM]

Well DAWG I feel your pain. I found out over the weekend that the rack and pinion on my car will need to be replaced. My trip to NYC next week is out the window. Five Hundred bucks at the minimum to have the repairs done on my car.

One thing I noticed in your post, you have a 98 Toyota Camry. We all know that the value of these car decrease very slowly. Another thing is that it's an import. Unless this car was under warranty you should've never taken it to the dealer to get it fixed. Two weeks ago I had my two front brakes with the works replaced for $103 at a local Good Year tire shop. Last summer I had the rear brakes replaced, two new tires, coolant refilled, new wiper blades, and my air condition looked at for four hundred dollars. At a dealership that would've set me back at least six to seven hundred dollars.

Try the discount autoshops because some shops will allow you to buy your own parts which will help cut down on the final costs. Also, don't be afraid to ask where the shops order their parts from. I know many shops will order parts straight from NAPA and we all know how much those parts cost compared to Discount Auto and Pep Boys.

Peace

[ April 07, 2003, 07:32 AM: Message edited by: GROOVE VICTIM ]

[imported_Gman]

Originally posted by (Im)poster:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Gman:
Also if there are no major problems with the brakes (assuming you always replaced the brake pads when they got low) then why did they say you needed new rotors on all four wheels ?

-G Had the pads replaced about this time last year. Also had the 40,000-mile service done about six months ago. Forgot to ask them if the rotors can be resurfaced and will ask that tomorrow. They were also instructed to keep all the parts. I'm just going to have them do what needs to be done to pass inspection and find someone else to do the rest of the "suggested" work -- if it really needs to be done.

Thanks Ron, for your good wishes. </font>[/QUOTE]Also Toyota recommends that the timing belt be replaced at 60,000 miles on a 1998 Camry. Sounds like thats a good plan to have them do just the work that needs to be done to pass inspection and get a second opinion on the rest of the "SUGGESTED" work. Just curious what needs to be done to pass your states inspection ?

[Koffy Brown]

They kill me at the auto mechanic shop...i always get physically ill when I have to take my car to be looked at...I know they are getting over on me. I need to buy a new one but I don't want a car note...They take complete advantage of women..unless you know what you are talking about..it's either pay the money or get the neighborhood crackhead mechanic to fix it...

[imported_Gman]

Originally posted by Wild i:
No matter how timely you are in getting your brakes replaced, sooner or later you'll have to replace the rotors. It's just a matter of friction.
True but only after 40 something thousand miles? I just got rid of my 1988 honda civic. It had 120,000 miles on original rotors. They final told me I needed new rotors at about 115,000 miles. WildI I wish I had married you instead of Linda. You would have saved me lots of money over the years :D

-G

[Koffy Brown]

On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D

[imported_Gman]

Originally posted by Ashaki:
On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D :eek:

[GROOVE VICTIM]

Originally posted by Ashaki:
On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D You're getting JACKED!!!!!! You rotors will need to be resurfaced more often than gettin them replaced. This I know because I commute to work so I have to do alot of preventive maintenance with my car. I hope they didn't charge you for just looking at the car first.


Peace

[Koffy Brown]

Well I have a BMW...don't get hyped it's a 88...and the dealer told me that first...so then I took it to CarX and they told me the same...then I took it to some lil shop and they told me the same...anyone else know something differently...

[TAD]

Originally posted by Ashaki:
On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D straight up lies. you've been seriously ripped off.

(Im)poster, like Gman said, 40,000 miles isn't much. i doubt you need new rotors.

it really bothers me when i hear stories like this. good luck.

[Koffy Brown]

See that's why I need a man to help me with these things...I could get real ghetto like my sister and put my own brakes on...Thanks for telling me that...

[imported_Gman]

Originally posted by Cosmic_Twin:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Ashaki:
On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D straight up lies. you've been seriously ripped off.

</font>[/QUOTE]She has a BMW does that make a difference though ?

[GROOVE VICTIM]

Originally posted by Ashaki:
See that's why I need a man to help me with these things...I could get real ghetto like my sister and put my own brakes on...Thanks for telling me that... It's funny you made this comment because I learned how not to get ripped off by Mechanics from my Mother. She grew up with six brothers and they all worked on cars when they were in highschool. She knew the ins and outs of a car and was a step ahead when it came to getting her car repaired. Education is the key!!!


Peace

[Koffy Brown]

Originally posted by Gman:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Cosmic_Twin:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Ashaki:
On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D straight up lies. you've been seriously ripped off.

</font>[/QUOTE]She has a BMW does that make a difference though ? </font>[/QUOTE]That's what I'm saying, no car shop will just put pads on it...I did shop around and everyone said the same thing..you can't just put pads you have to do the rotors too....

[GROOVE VICTIM]

If this is the case and it's costing you more than double to get your brakes replaced compared to another import or a domestic then I would consider looking for another car, if that is what you choose. Check the Kelly Blue Book value of the car and see what you can get for a trade in.

[TAD]

Originally posted by Gman:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Cosmic_Twin:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Ashaki:
On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D straight up lies. you've been seriously ripped off.

</font>[/QUOTE]She has a BMW does that make a difference though ? </font>[/QUOTE]not at all

[(Im)poster]

The guy said the brakes have already been done and probably some of the other work, too.
Wild i: They said the brakes and rotors and wiper blades (!) would be 1,400 alone considering parts and labor and the cost of the inspection (about $30). I can't remember all the other stuff but it was a lot of little things. The last time I had to put $1,000 into a car, it was to replace the transmission!

G: My car has about 50,000 miles on it now and the guy said the rotors were too far gone to resurface (this I seriously doubt because the brakes were not squeaking). The brakes and wiper blades are all I need to pass inspection. The thing is that I started taking my car there because when I had the front pads replaced the first time it cost me about $150 compared to a $350 quote in Jersey. Just can't win. I thought they would be more honest in small-town Pa.

Ashaki: I'm with you on feeling ill even going into the shop. I used to have to have my brakes done every time, too. But in those days I had a long commute and lived on a hill. I figured that was helping to wear them down. I keep thinking I should start a rent-a-man business!!

Thanks everyone for you tips and good wishes. Looks like I might be screwed this time, though.
But I'll know next time. At least I did not agree to get tires and a battery from them!

[ April 07, 2003, 08:30 AM: Message edited by: (Im)poster ]

[TAD]

Originally posted by Ashaki:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Gman:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Cosmic_Twin:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Ashaki:
On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D straight up lies. you've been seriously ripped off.

</font>[/QUOTE]She has a BMW does that make a difference though ? </font>[/QUOTE]That's what I'm saying, no car shop will just put pads on it...I did shop around and everyone said the same thing..you can't just put pads you have to do the rotors too.... </font>[/QUOTE]you need to find an honest mechanic that won't give you the runaround. also, when they see someone with an expensive car, the cash register starts ringing in their brain. ka-ching!!! AR15firing.gif

[Wild i]

Okay, EVERYBODY LISTEN TO ME!!

When you buy a car, new, used, whatever, go immediately to you local autoparts supermarket (Strauss, Autozone, Pep Boys, Track Auto, etc.) and get either a Chilton's manual or a Haynes manual for your make and model. Chilton is more popularly known, but I actually prefer Haynes. Such a manual will tell you all the little sticky things like whether rotors on your car need to be replaced every time you replace the brakes (I doubt that seriously, but I'm not sure about Beemers. I've heard stranger things). For example, every time you change the brakes on an MG, you have to change all the hardware (nuts and bolts) because all the nuts, bolts and fittings are brass. They don't screw out, the break off. As far as I know the British Leland cars are the only ones like this (MG, Bently, Jaguar). For another example, you do not want to use unleaded gas in an older VW or MG (1985 and below) because they have aluminum heads which get pitted. The impurities in leaded gas guard against this. That's why you'll see "lead substitute" in an auto parts supermarket.

Imp, you car is a 1998, you probably have on-board diagnostics. Get a book. It will tell you how to reveal and interpret your diagnostic codes and you don't have to be a mechanic or brain surgeon to figure it out. Unfortunately, they have removed this feature from newer cars so now you either have to go to a mechanic, or buy the stupid computer yourself (a mere $1500 from what I heard). When I had my '87 Daytona, I had an idle problem (cut off at lights). Took it to one mechanic who tried to turn up the idle (not recommended in EFI cars). Idiot! Was told by a number of mechanics I needed a new computer ($700). Checked my Haynes manual, read my diagnostics. I needed a gas sensor. Cost me $80 and took 10 minutes to change (in the snow). Never had the problem again.

Other than that, you are definitely being ripped off. Wiper blades are $12.00 MAX. I'm sure you can find somebody to change them for you. (I had a problem with a replacement blade I bought. I couldn't get the adapter off to make it fit. They changed it a my oil-change-and-carwash place for nothing.) Hell, come to NY. I'll change it for you. Or I'll plan a visit to my sister in So. Jersey and hook up to change it for you then. What part of South Jersey you in, anyway?


A point about brakes a rotors. Rotors can go bad at 10,000 miles if not cared for. And you don't always hear a squeaking. Sometimes it's more of a rubbing sound that may not sound like it's coming from the wheel area. Also, if you have your brakes resurfaced (a misnomer actually because what they do is take surface off) four times or more, you may need rotors, depending on the extent of the damage. Personally, I've been a car owner for most of the last 30 years and I think I've avoided having my rotors cut once. By the time you hear a noise, you need your rotors cut because the noise you hear is the nut that holds the pad on cutting into the rotor. So unless you change your brakes on schedule rather than on need (which most of us don't do), you'll probably need resurfacing, which means sooner or later you'll need rotors. Of course if money is an issue, used rotors from a junk yard are a possibility, assuming they haven't changed the wheel style on your car too much. (I tried to buy some used mag wheels recently and was told my car was too new (2000) because they don't make the wheels the same anymore).

But getting back to my original point WHEN YOU BUY A CAR, IMMEDIATELY BUY THE CHILTON OR HAYNES MANUAL THAT GOES WITH IT!! It will save you a lot of money and a lot of headache. You don't have to be a mechanic, but you should have an idea of what is and is not reasonable.

Gman, you made the right choice in marriage. I know a little some-some about cars, but I'm no artist and I would have cost you much more in other areas (my snack cake budget alone would break the bank).

[ April 07, 2003, 09:01 AM: Message edited by: Wild i ]

[imported_Gman]

Originally posted by (Im)poster:
The guy said the brakes have already been done and probably some of the other work, too.
Wild i: They said the brakes and rotors and wiper blades (!) would be 1,400 alone considering parts and labor and the cost of the inspection (about $30). I can't remember all the other stuff but it was a lot of little things. The last time I had to put $1,000 into a car, it was to replace the transmission!

G: My car has about 50,000 miles on it now and the guy said the rotors were too far gone to resurface (this I seriously doubt because the brakes were not squeaking). The brakes and wiper blades are all I need to pass inspection. The thing is that I started taking my car there because when I had the front pads replaced the first time it cost me about $150 compared to a $350 quote in Jersey. Just can't win. I thought they would be more honest in small-town Pa.

Just one more question. Did you sign off on the work before they started on it, verbally or written ? If yes then chalk it up to experience but if they started on the work before obtaining final approval well.....

I used to take some cars we owned before to a place called Foriegn Car Specialists. I thought they were honest at first because their prices when I checked the first couple of times were lower or the same as everybody else. What I figured out was they would charge me excessive prices and perform work that didn't need to be done every other time. mad1.gif

I have a Honda Accord LX 2001. The place I trust to do the work on this car is actually the dealer. This trust has been developed over about 14 years of dealing with them. The prices on their maintenance schedule items and other repairs is fair and they always do the work correctly.

[(Im)poster]

Thanks for the tip on the Chilton manual, Wild i. I will pick that up. My rotors have never been cut. I can actually change the blades and headlights myself. I think they are charging $8 for the blades, so I will let it go.

G: Yes, I signed the paper for the inspection and I am sure that will somehow authorize them to do all the work. Yep, I think I'm already screwed on this one. Oh well.

Doesn't having the work done by a dealership also help protect a car's value?

[mhd]

if you have the energy, check with the state, county or city better business, or consumer advocacy office to see if any complaints have been filed or to file one yourself.

may not be a bad idea to have a male friend go with you to the repair shop.

talk to friends or co-workers about their mechanics, i know the three best mechanics in my area that fix my make of car and i'm always asking people who their mechanics are. folks love to talk about their car.

finally, hondas and camrys are very popular and reliable cars, i would suggest you talk to one of the mechanics at the dealer and ask if they do work on the side, many of them do, and sometimes they can do it at the dealer, just for a lower price.

['Magic' Juan]

Man, these mechanics should be watched by somebody. The thing that racks up the cost is the "hourly wage." Last year I took the car in to get an electrical problem fixed. Basically, it was just a loose wire underneath the ash tray I did not see. I got charged $115 for parts and labor. What parts? What labor?

What I usually do now is take it to the local 'hood shops. You know, those that look like they used to be an Amoco station, but now the pumps are missing and the garage is looking a little shabby. Usually they have better deals and can cut you a break, but they can also be major rip-offs so watch yourself. Just my two bits ...

magic_juan

[ April 07, 2003, 12:30 PM: Message edited by: magic_juan ]

[Huey P. Freeman]

That sounds extremely high. I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon and just had my 60000 mile service and rear brakes done(with new rear rotors) for $1066. That also includes a $50 deductabble for some warranty work I had done.

[GROOVE VICTIM]

Originally posted by Eargasm:
That sounds extremely high. I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon and just had my 60000 mile service and rear brakes done(with new rear rotors) for $1066. That also includes a $50 deductabble for some warranty work I had done. What is included in the 60000 mile service?

[Huey P. Freeman]

Everything she listed plus a new timing belt. It was all done at a Toyota dealership. They even gave me a free loaner over the weekend while it was in for service.

[imported_Gman]

Originally posted by GROOVE VICTIM:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Eargasm:
That sounds extremely high. I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon and just had my 60000 mile service and rear brakes done(with new rear rotors) for $1066. That also includes a $50 deductabble for some warranty work I had done. What is included in the 60000 mile service? </font>[/QUOTE]1998 Toyota Camry
60000 Maintenance Service
Perform the Following at 60000 Miles:

Maintenance Service
Replace Engine Oil
Replace Engine Oil Filter
Replace Spark Plugs
Replace Fuel Filter
Replace Air Cleaner Filter
Replace PCV Valve
Replace Valve Cover Gasket
Replace Valve Cover Grommets/Washers
Replace Distributor Cap
Replace Distributor Rotor
Replace Timing Belt and Inspect Water Pump
Replace Brake Fluid
Replace Engine Coolant
Replace Differential Fluid
Inspect EVAP Charcoal Canister
Perform Transmission Service
Inspect Bolts and Nuts on Chassis and Body
Inspect Brake Lines and Cables
Inspect Brake Pads, Linings, Rotors and Drums
Check for Fluid Leaks
Inspect Drive Axle Boots
Inspect Exhaust System and Heat Shields
Rotate Tires
Road Test

[GROOVE VICTIM]

Originally posted by Gman:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by GROOVE VICTIM:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Eargasm:
That sounds extremely high. I have a 1998 Toyota Avalon and just had my 60000 mile service and rear brakes done(with new rear rotors) for $1066. That also includes a $50 deductabble for some warranty work I had done. What is included in the 60000 mile service? </font>[/QUOTE]1998 Toyota Camry
60000 Maintenance Service
Perform the Following at 60000 Miles:

Maintenance Service
Replace Engine Oil
Replace Engine Oil Filter
Replace Air Cleaner Filter
Replace PCV Valve
Replace Timing Belt and Inspect Water Pump
Replace Brake Fluid
Replace Engine Coolant
Inspect Bolts and Nuts on Chassis and Body
Inspect Brake Lines and Cables
Inspect Brake Pads, Linings, Rotors and Drums
Check for Fluid Leaks
Inspect Drive Axle Boots
Inspect Exhaust System and Heat Shields
Rotate Tires
Road Test </font>[/QUOTE]SHEESH, minus a few inspections and work listed above, this is what I had done on my car last year including new rear brakes, new break line for the left rear brake, and two new tires. All four 400 bucks. Plus the fact I rolled up to the shop with about 5 coupons. This is why I'll probably never buy a foreign car. If I do, it will have to be a Mitusubishi or a Mazda because most of these cars use the same parts on Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth vehicles.

Peace

[YoRel]

Originally posted by Gman:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Cosmic_Twin:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Ashaki:
On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D straight up lies. you've been seriously ripped off.

</font>[/QUOTE]She has a BMW does that make a difference though ? </font>[/QUOTE]I have a BMW also, it doesn't make a difference. They straight up lied. mad1.gif If you aren't driving in the Daytona 500, there is no way that you'll need to replace the rotors when you replace the pads. If you tell me that they told you that you need calipers also. I coming to kick someone a*s for you. graemlins/spanka.gif

[liL Ray]

After just reading the first page, it is evident we need to start a "how much to pay for car repair" forum. Change your rotors with every brake job? Damn!!, you should take 'em to court for that shit...they are probably changing your calipers and bearings also, and hitting you with a fat bill....and then turn around, cut your rotors and sell them as used rotors to the next customer....hope you stop on a dime all the time!

$2500 for a check-up? you don't need to find a good mechanic for a regular check-up...for replacing your engine or your transmission, but not a check-up. Next time go to your local "mechanic without a shop" hangout (every town has one...Brooklyn has one in the Sears parking lot in Flatbush) and ask one of the mechanics to do the job.....or just give me the 2500 dollars and I'll pay my mechanic to do the job, pay his way to get out to you, by him a bottle of his favorite drink...and then pocket the extra 2,350.

:D

[ April 07, 2003, 05:51 PM: Message edited by: liL Ray ]

[TAD]

i spoke to my mechanic. he specializes in bmw's, audi's, vw's. he said although rotors on a bmw are made of a softer material to improve performance, it is not necessary to change them each time the pads need to be replaced. only a dishonest mechanic would use this little known fact as an argument.

before you buy a car, it should be inspected. a manual will not save you money after you've bought a car & realize it has problems.

[Koffy Brown]

Originally posted by YoRel:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Gman:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Cosmic_Twin:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Ashaki:
On my car I have to replace the rotors everytime I replace the brakes...or so they told me...that you can't do 1 w/o the other...can you check into that for me Wild? :D straight up lies. you've been seriously ripped off.

</font>[/QUOTE]She has a BMW does that make a difference though ? </font>[/QUOTE]I have a BMW also, it doesn't make a difference. They straight up lied. mad1.gif If you aren't driving in the Daytona 500, there is no way that you'll need to replace the rotors when you replace the pads. If you tell me that they told you that you need calipers also. I coming to kick someone a*s for you. graemlins/spanka.gif </font>[/QUOTE]ahhh hell nah...it's bout to be some problems...why they lie to me...well maybe I did need rotors at that time...see that's why i hate mechanics...and car salesmen...maybe that's why I haven't bought a new car...don't want the stress...don't make no damn sense...

[GROOVE VICTIM]

Take this information and learn from your ordeals.

If you do decide to purchase a new car Ashaki, be in total control of the conversation. Trust me!! Study the documents you have to sign, go online to sites like www.autobytel.com (http://www.autobytel.com) and study the terms dealers use, practice how to calculate monthly payments if you decide to finance. Do not lease a car!!!! Take total control, it's your money!!!

Peace

[Koffy Brown]

Originally posted by GROOVE VICTIM:
Take this information and learn from your ordeals.

If you do decide to purchase a new car Ashaki, be in total control of the conversation. Trust me!! Study the documents you have to sign, go online to sites like www.autobytel.com (http://www.autobytel.com) and study the terms dealers use, practice how to calculate monthly payments if you decide to finance. Do not lease a car!!!! Take total control, it's your money!!!

Peace Will you go with me??????

[GROOVE VICTIM]

Now I gotta travel up to Ohio? Gee Willikers.

Seriously though, it took me 2 years before I was ready to puchase a car on my own for the first time through a Car Dealer.

I laid down the terms that I wanted to use, the montly payments, the trade in value of my car, and my down payment.

The salesman tried to get me to lease a car, and I broke it down to him the fact that I would not get myself caught in any open-end of close end-lease, plus my credit was not good at the time.

Remember these sales men are not on a pay-per-hour structure. They need to sell cars. With that in mind, you have total control of their fate sort to speak. I had the car inspected, the whole nine yards. The next day I looked over the papers I had to sign, the sales man gave me a check and I took it to the bank in which they would finance my car.

I ended up with the payments I wanted and the amount of time I would make these payments. Total control.


My old boss told me a few days later that I should've went with him when he purchased his truck.

graemlins/rofl.gif

[Koffy Brown]

Seriously, it's sickening, even if I got the best deal around I would feel as though I got used...I get ill...everytime I think about buying a car...I be like...nah...I'll wait until I'm married graemlins/rofl.gif

[GROOVE VICTIM]

Just be patient. I have 5 months left on making payments on my car. I plan to do some serious work on it to help keep the car at a slower depreciation rate for when I decide to trade it in two to three years from now. During this period of time I'm also planning on reducing my overall debt and doing some investing.

If I can get atleast 2500 for my car two to three years from now, then I'm in good shape because I plan on taking a nice chunk of money and put it towards a down payment. I refuse to be one of these knuckleheads down here that pay over four hundred dollars a month on a car that's more than 6 years old. Ridicerous (Seinfeld).


Peace