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"I Shoulda, Woulda, Coulda ..." today, is likely the result of saying "F### it" yesterday
Steering wheel pulls to the left when braking, pulls to the right when first stepping on gas![]()
Slave to the Rhythm
This is true Brazen but beware. Many times the code only points you in the right direction. Make sure the person deciphering the codes is a mechanic you can trust and not a very good parts exchanger. Code might say "bank two lean", rookie reader tells you it must be the converter and it could just be a sensor or easier a spark plug or wire. Not the greatest example but you get what Im saying. The wrong shops take those read outs and rip you off. And tell you "the computer dont lie", 'we went by what it pointed to". Of course this is after you already paid and come back to complain your check engine light is back on.
I will be Rods weak apprentice while he is out to lunch.
Pull while braking sounds like a caliper or very un evenly worn brake pads. Pull when accelerating, if its front wheel drive sounds like torque steer from a lead foot lol. Check the wear on front tires could be worn suspension parts.
Will have a better answer when the boss comes back.
check these things
A). your pads might be wearing uneven...
see that the pads on both sides of the rotor have wearing evenly....
B). there is warpage on the rotors.
spin the rotor slowly and see if it moves freely with out sticking ...you will hear a scraping sound
C). last the caliper is starting to go...
remove the brake pads..check the seals around the caliper piston
good luck![]()
I'll House You!
lol....lvdphse
yes primarily check the braking system to eliminate that...then head on to the suspension..you might have a weak front strut if the brakes checks out well
when braking the weight of the car tranfers to the front...called a (nose dive)
which also cause the car to lean towards one direction L/R which increases your braking distance (takes longer to stop)
Last edited by DJ RodWOne; 11-17-2010 at 06:20 PM.
I'll House You!
yo rod...great thread man.....could probably save alot of peeps money
"The Underground Sunrise Sessions"...thursdays www.handzonradio.fm 08:00pmest
djkmixx.podomatic.com
Hey boss, help me out with this one. 03 elantra left brake sticking, got to the point it smoked. Easy fix with bad caliper which by this time ruins the pads and rotors so I change both.
Wouldnt you know a day later its pulling to the right. Odd coincidence but possible so I do the same on the right but still getting hot a few days later.
Proportioning valve appears ok and usually dont go bad and would likely show issues front and back not just side to side.
I do some searching and get a long shot answer of contaminated brake fluid that has ruined the rubber seals in the calipers which is causing them to freeze up. The fix of course is completely flush all the fluid out and replace with new and of course change the pads and rotors again not only because they wore quickly and unevenly due to overheating but to surely to rid bad fluid completely.
Now thats just the fronts. If the bad fluid theory is true I assume I will get the same issue in the rear drums.
What you think?
wow that's crazy....lol
when you change caliper you should (always) do both at the same time...to avoid issues like that....and since you have the calipers out its good to flush out the whole system while you at it..... moisture (water) is what contaminates the brake fluid
the answer to your question is 97% no...it should not have no effect the rear drums....you should be fine as long you flushed the system....
if you have a lead foot get a good dot 3 or jump to a dot 4 it has a higher boiling point...
fast pad/rotor wear is mainly due cheap parts....even if you are a slow driver....always invest in braking power...i always suggest ceramic pads and vented rotors that dissipate heat well
Last edited by DJ RodWOne; 11-18-2010 at 12:45 AM.
I'll House You!
i though... i share a work of art....
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I'll House You!
This is the business!!!!!!!
73' Skyline GTR; Playas!!!!!!!!
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Galaxy rays; Powerful!!! =D
Thanks Rod. I dont know how but I guess water contamination. This cant be condensation though so I have no clue how enough (unless very little will do it) would get in system to give me these issues. Im gonna change the rubber lines going to the master cylinder also. Was told to replace everything everything rubber in system. Will let you know how it turns out.
OK, this is getting out of hand and expensive. New calipers, rotors, pads, master cylinder, front brake lines (rubber ones) and complete flush. After 30 minutes of driving, up in smoke. The proportioning valve is all metal but doesn't it control pressure? Im helping on this with a certified mechanic that Ive used for years that has always been on point with diagnosing and repairing and the PV isnt high on his list of possible cause. I kinda want to agree because if it was bad it would be bad not go bad after a half hour. Next step is the rear wheel seals and re flush. Any thoughts?
i have a question:
how come every time i venture into the burbs i always see some dude in a shitbox turning on his nitrous oxide to make it over over a hill/bridge/ramp (only to stop 100 ft later at a red light). what are they trying to compensate for other than their obvious miniature penises?
try bedding the brakes...meaning do about ten stops from 35 mph to about 5 mph using moderate brake pressure and allowing the pads to cool between stops
and see if it stops
if the pad are glazed pull them out, rough up the surface..also make sure he cleans the rotors...not to leave grease, dirt on them that will cause the problem too..
Last edited by DJ RodWOne; 11-22-2010 at 02:43 AM.
I'll House You!
Yo car guy,
I have a 92 Saab 9000. One of the metal brackets that appears to hold the fuel tank in place has broken off an is now dragging on the ground. Can I have this welded back into place or do I need to purchase replacement parts?
Last edited by Nay Sayer; 11-30-2010 at 01:51 PM.
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