Randy, I thought about you when I wrote this, because I reckoned you wouldn't be amused at harsh opinions about Berlin. Let me elaborate.
To begin: Berlin was not
voted by the country to become the capital of Germany. Rather, there was/is a provision in the
Grundgesetz for Berlin to be turned into the capital on reunification. This was acted upon by parliament in 1991 after very controversial public debate.
I agree that Berlin is a vibrant and magnetic place, when looked at from a particular perspective. Understandably it draws young people for a variety of reasons, including great culture, history, nightlife and a comparitively reasonable cost of living. Rents are (still) cheaper than expensive cities like Munich, Hamburg and Frankfurt. In particular it has become a magnet for people in creative fields (art, architecture, design, fashion, music etc.) because of the relative accessibilty of alternative lifestyles and because of promising synergy potentials.
But another side of Berlin is this: over the past 20 years Berlin has been heavily subsidised, artificially souped up and hyped to visibly demonstrate the post-cold war new republic - or that depiction that Germans would like to see of themselves. So for one the entire federal government as well as countless civil service branches were relocated there at a substantial cost to the taxpayer for reasons of pure prestige (note that most federal ministries still maintain their former Bonn offices as publically maintained outposts). Certainly not to be more central or nearer to the people in a physical or geographical sense (which explains capitals like Brasilia or Abuja), when you consider that Berlin is surrounded by a 100-mile radius of comparitive East German demographic wasteland.
For another post-reunification Berlin rather disappointingly shows how a consumerist economic focus is being stretched excessively to achieve a rank up there with the New Yorks, Londons and Parises (and increasingly Shanghais and Singapores),
to get onto the bottom of that perfume bottle. A three-hour walk through Mitte will offer little other than a culturally streamlined moronic progression of boring high street chain store branches in boring commercial buildings. A vision, in my opinion, of dejection. And I know you, as well as many "New-Berliners" from all corners of country and globe perceived as provincial, will vigorously point out that it's all really happening in the tenement back lots in Prenzelberg, Friedrichshain, Neukölln or whichever quarter happens to be the in-place for the in-crowd at a given time. Which I in turn admit is invigourating when you're twentysomething, when there is 24-hour-clubbing, when there is a trust fund to blow, and the uncool everyman masses in the unglamorous bits of the country foot the big bills.
Getting back to the city and how it looks from the sidewalk: twenty years of focus on Kohlian Berlin under Schröder and Merkel have not yielded a single piece of internationally noteworthy architecture (and I am grudgingly discounting Liebeskind's Jewish museum, the holocaust memorial, and Foster's third workover of the
Reichstag). This is symptomatic of our German think-small culture, and our inability to understand or generate
public aesthetics (Again, the Berlin creative scene will howl at this in exasperation, but - as I've said - I'm looking at Berlin from a different angle) It is futile to search for a
Millenium Dome, a Gehry or latter-day Hadid, a keen piece of engineering like Calatrava's Liege or Lyon-Satolas, or anything remotely akin to Mitterand's
Grand Projets. Potsdamer Platz is an abject, glaring failure of public-private partnership, and the new central station is, frankly, a manifest allround philosophical
embarrassment and symbol for societal spatial ineptitude.
Which brings us to some significant mainline economic truths. Aside from
Deutsche Bahn, none of Germany's top 20 blue chip companies (and less than 5 of the top 100) is headquartered in Berlin. Not a single banking or insurance institution of any significance has its seat in the German capital. To date Germany's economic wealth continues to be generated in the southern and western states (Bavaria, Baden-Würtemberg, Ruhr Area), and in the metropolitan regions in the heart of the European Megalopolis. Geographically and demographically Berlin and its environs are at best peripheral to the German and European economic "engine room".
So, coming back to the
Spiegel Silicon Valley analogy (an article that I read with interest): Yes, perhaps the start-up crowd is increasingly swarming to Berlin (which is part of the increasingly visible gentrification), but this is - as I pointed out earlier - due to the potentially nebulous promise of synergy. And, of course, because IMO Berlin has become the single biggest creative
sweatshop with the lowest payscales in midwestern Europe. So we will see how that pans out.
I'm sorry to say, liberally paraphrasing Kennedy, that I am not a Berliner. And arguably I will never become one, either. I came to Germany two years before the fall of the wall, and since then most of my training and practice (architecture and townplanning), as well as the interaction in my private circles (architects, designers, music and entertainment professionals), has had to do with understanding and dealing with Berlin and its significance. Certainly, my political identity was shaped tremendously by the collapse of the Eastern Bloc and reunification. In case you're wondering: I was born in Sachsen in then East Germany, and while I did not grow up in Europe, I have a childhood and teenage experience of both West and East Berlin (including negotiating the inner-German border to visit my family numerous times) before '89. Which is not to say, that while I think Berlin is in many ways overrated, it certainly is a fun place to go and see and enjoy. But so are many other places.
http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liste_d...in_Deutschland
http://www.forbes.com/global2000/lis...ll_All_Germany
p.s.: I'm sorry we didn't get together a few weeks ago, when I was in Berlin for three days. It was a company trip, so there was a lot of company program to attend, but I had a good time, taking in as much as I could of the city. I'll keep you posted of when I'll be ther next.
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